The term “natural” is used quite freely by cosmetics corporations. In reality, today’s cosmetics industry uses a huge number of chemicals, and “natural ingredients” most often have little to do with nature.
Most advertising campaigns by the cosmetics industry emphasize how natural their cosmetics are—full of nutrients and wonderfully effective on our skin and hair. In extreme cases, such slogans may refer to products containing less than 1% ingredients of natural origin. This is due to the simple fact that, to date, there are no legal regulations anywhere in the world defining the concept of a natural cosmetic.
Organic—which means what?
Iwona Jasińska, owner of an online store selling natural and organic products (www.zdrowekosmetyki.pl www.zdrowekosmetyki.com.pl) and, more recently, the traditional Zdrowe Kosmetyki Store in Bolesławiec:
– They contain no synthetic oils or other ingredients of petrochemical origin, synthetic colorants or harmful preservatives, nor raw materials from genetically modified plants. Their plant ingredients come from controlled organic farms, while permitted ingredients of animal origin may come only from living animals, such as milk or honey. In addition, their manufacturers are prohibited from testing on animals and are required to use ecological packaging.
Organic and “truly” natural cosmetics contain none of the chemicals commonly used in today’s cosmetics industry. This primarily concerns the synthetic detergents SLS and SLES (Sodium Lauryl Sulphate and Sodium Laureth Sulphate), which create lather but have an adverse effect on the environment and may cause skin sensitization. It also concerns parabens—effective preservatives that destroy many harmful fungi, but may cause allergies and probably adversely affect the hormonal system; they may also be carcinogenic. “Truly” natural cosmetics also contain no synthetic raw materials known as PEG (Polyethylene Glycol), which may make the skin permeable to potentially toxic substances from the environment.
Natural and organic cosmetics also contain no synthetic oils of petrochemical origin (Mineral oil, Parafinum Liquidum), which cover the skin with a layer that inhibits gas and metabolic exchange, meaning that even the most valuable active ingredients dissolved in them do not penetrate the skin. Instead of synthetic oils, organic cosmetics use natural oils, such as sesame, peanut, rose, sweet almond and wheat germ oils, shea butter and olive oil.
As Iwona Jasińska from the Zdrowe Kosmetyki Store explains, natural and organic cosmetics really heal the skin rather than merely improving its appearance temporarily. They can provide effective care and delay the aging process without causing dependence on radically acting ingredients, to which the skin unfortunately becomes accustomed too easily.
With or without certification
Whether a cosmetic meets natural or even organic criteria is specified in great detail by special certifications, such as the German BDIH, the French ECOCERT and others. On the Polish market, BDIH certification is held by companies including Lavera, Logona, Provida Organics, Weleda, Sante Naturkosmetik, Dr. Hauschka, Tautropfen, Anne Lind Natural Welless, Khadi and Safea—a brand that enjoys considerable interest and which we introduced to our range as the first partner store in Poland. ECOCERT certification is held, among others, by products from Eco Cosmetics, Alva, as well as the Eco Linea and Eco Body ranges of the Polish company Laboratorium Kosmetyczne AVA. The French COSMEBIO certification is also held by, among others, Coslys.
The German association of organic producers DEMETER also certifies organic cosmetics; its certification is held by, among others, cosmetics from Weleda, Provida Organics, Tautropfen. In addition, several leading organic cosmetics manufacturers whose products already have BDIH certification, such as Lavera, Logona, Dr. Hauschka, Weleda, also use the new NaTrue certification standard and the UK’s SOIL ASSOCIATION standard. Other certifications used to label organic products should also be mentioned, such as the Organic Farming mark and Fairtrade, which I will describe later in the article.
However, certifications—although credible—also have certain limitations. They are issued for only one year, so a certificate from several seasons ago does not guarantee that a company still applies high organic standards. Certification of one cosmetics line also does not automatically mean that all of the company’s products are made organically.
How can we recognize that we are dealing with a natural or organic cosmetic?
When a large cosmetics corporation boasts too insistently in its advertising that its products contain only natural ingredients, it is worth remaining skeptical. As Iwona Jasińska says: – An unwritten rule among companies producing organic cosmetics is that they do not use aggressive advertising. Let us remember that products without preservatives have a much shorter shelf life, which makes mass production difficult. Organic cosmetics are not found in chain drugstores, but only in selected places. The best method is to read the ingredient list on cosmetic labels. The so-called INCI list—the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients—must appear on every cosmetic approved for sale in Europe. It is also worth remembering that the ingredients present in the greatest quantities are listed at the beginning.
No cosmetic whose manufacturer claims that it is organic or natural should contain: Sodium Lauryl Sulphate, Sodium Laureth Sulphate, synthetic oils: Mineral Oil, Petrolatum, Paraffinum-Liquidum, Cera Microcristalline, Microcrystalline Wax, Ozokerit, Ceresi, Silicone, Paraffin, Propylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Xylene Glycol (propylene glycol and other glycols), or parabens: Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Butylparaben and Propylparaben…
Fragrance substances—These are the cause of many allergic reactions associated with cosmetic products. Fragrance substances do not require manufacturers to provide a detailed declaration of their composition, so we do not know whether the innocently sounding names fragrance or parfum conceal natural fragrance substances or synthetics, in some cases composed of as many as 200 chemical substances. Most allergens are hidden here. Synthetic musk has recently acquired a particularly bad reputation—it is used to produce perfumes, aftershaves, soaps and other hygiene products and, according to scientists, may also cause cancer and disrupt the endocrine system. In contrast, the delicate scents of natural cosmetics are obtained exclusively through the use of natural essential oils, which only rarely, in very sensitive people, may cause sensitization or allergic reactions. In the INCI name, we often find an additional term in parentheses: (essential oils).
How, then, do organic cosmetics manufacturers preserve their products? Organic cosmetics manufacturers prefer natural preservation methods, which generally involve many factors, including careful selection of pure raw materials, the use of essential oils that stabilize shelf life, vitamins such as C, D and E, small amounts of pure plant alcohol, maintaining the proper pH of the cosmetic, using naturally preserving substances, and production and packaging in special rooms meeting pharmaceutical standards—in special nitrogen chambers that protect the cosmetics from oxygen entering them. This deprives fungi and yeasts of air, preventing them from breathing and growing. Carefully selected ingredients also provide additional protection against microorganisms, such as sea salt in toothpaste or herbal extracts.
Truly organic cosmetics are generally not among the cheapest. Natural ingredients, such as vegetable oils, are many times more expensive than synthetics and much less durable. When buying them, however, we can be sure that we are paying for carefully selected ingredients and the product’s properties, rather than a company’s marketing and advertising, as is unfortunately the case with most cosmetics corporations. But it is not entirely true that every organic cosmetic has to be expensive, adds Iwona Jasińska. For example, our store offers a 50 ml moisturizing cream from Eco Cosmetics costing just over thirty złoty, whose composition is 100% natural.
The best solution for consumers would be clear regulations governing manufacturers’ use of the terms “natural” and “organic” in relation to the cosmetics they produce. However, this issue may take many more years to resolve, if only because of strong lobbying by international cosmetics giants, which could lose too much if the general public learned how synthetic their “natural cosmetics” really are. Certification of cosmetics by institutions independent of manufacturers establishes the first standards, which may perhaps eventually be followed by statutory solutions. Similar institutions monitoring natural cosmetics may also be established in Poland. For now, we are left with thorough study of INCI before buying another shampoo, cream or other product intended for caring for our bodies.
For the benefit of readers of www.istotneinformacje.pl, on our website www.zdrowekosmetyki.pl (click!) we present the most commonly used certifications for products, in our case natural and organic cosmetics and other healthy products from our store.
We offer:
- A wide selection of natural cosmetics—low prices
- Facial, hair and body cosmetics for women and men,
babies and children - Vegan cosmetics and products for people with allergies
- Organic cleaning and laundry products
The products we offer have the following organic certifications: NaTrue, Ecocert, BDIH, Demeter, Eco Garantie, Eco Control and the Organic Farming certification.
With us, you can check cosmetic ingredients and learn about food additives and preservatives used in conventional cosmetics. Shop responsibly. You have a choice. Read product ingredients. Choose cosmetics and products without chemicals.
For men:
Even if you do not use cosmetics or use only a small amount, we invite you to visit the store—for a gift for your partner, mother or sister as well. We will help you choose a suitable cosmetic which, because of the range of products that is difficult to find on the market, will certainly prove to be an original gift for any woman.
Our store also offers organic cleaning and laundry products.
Zdrowe Kosmetyki – Iwona Jasińska
13 Jagiellonów Street
59-700 Bolesławiec
Online store: www.zdrowekosmetyki.pl
www.zdrowekosmetyki.com.pl
e-mail: sklep@zdrowekosmetyki.com.pl
Every order placed through the online store can be collected in person and free of charge at the point in Bolesławiec at 13 Jagiellonów Street during office hours from Monday to Friday.
Office and online-order collection point opening hours:
Monday: 10:00–15:00
Tuesday: 10:00–15:00
Wednesday: 10:00–15:00
Thursday: 10:00–15:00
Friday: 10:00–18:00
Saturday–Sunday: CLOSED
When collecting ordered goods at the store, you may pay cash on collection or make an advance payment to the bank account before collecting the goods.
From Monday to Thursday, between 10:00 and 15:00, we process only shipments of online orders from customers in Poland; it is not possible to place an order at the point.
If you would like to purchase products from our store’s range and collect them at the point in Bolesławiec, please place an order through the online store and collect it after the staff confirm its availability and complete the order, or reserve the products by telephone or email and collect them on Friday between 10:00 and 18:00, when we are open longer.
(commissioned information)