Polish tables bring together the traditions of many regions. In my home, the flavors of Kujawy, where my mother grew up, mingle with the traditions of the Borderlands and Podlasie. At Christmas Eve dinner, just as at my grandmother’s home in the Kujawy region, there was never dried-fruit compote. Instead, my grandmother made a thick soup from dried fruit, full of cinnamon, cloves and raisins. There was carp, of course, but it lost out to fish caught in ponds and rivers. Herring was served with oil and onion.
History took my other grandparents to Żuławy. Their home brought together the Borderlands and Podlasie. There were more sea fish on the Christmas Eve table, because the sea was closer. We feasted on cod or halibut. At the fish wholesaler, we sometimes managed to find redfish or Patagonian toothfish. But herring could not be missing either. And it is my grandmother’s recipe that I like best.
The Best Herring with Dried Mushrooms
There simply is no Christmas Eve in our home without herring with dried mushrooms. Matjes are best for Christmas Eve dishes. They are hard to find, but it is worth looking for them or ordering them online. They are more delicate than ordinary herring. And be careful—herring à la matjes has nothing to do with the original. .
I usually soak herring in milk to remove excess salt. Matjes are somewhat less salty, but half an hour of soaking certainly will not hurt them. Good herring also requires onion. One that is too sharp will kill the flavor of the herring—and our fellow diners’ and guests’ enjoyment with our onion breath. Sweet onion works well, as it is milder than its yellow cousin.
And most importantly—dried mushrooms. Porcini are, of course, the best. Only they have such a deep flavor and aroma. Before mixing them with the herring, soak them and then cook until tender. They will add smoky, forest aromas to the herring.
Finally, add a little mustard, freshly ground pepper and oil. Choose whichever oil you like. Sometimes I choose mild olive oil, or mix it half and half with first-cold-pressed rapeseed oil. For special occasions—and Christmas Eve is surely the most special occasion of all—I keep a bottle of argan oil in the refrigerator. If you have some in your pantry, two tablespoons added to the herring transform it into an explosion of flavor. No one will even guess the secret of this masterpiece.
P.S. If you are looking for interesting recipes for the Christmas Eve table, be sure to try the carp cutlets. They will convince even those who are not fond of this fish.
You can find more of my recipes at www.platebykate.com
I would be absolutely delighted if you liked my Facebook page @platebykate and followed the profile @plateby.kate on Instagram.
Enjoy!
Recipe: herring with dried mushrooms
serves 4
preparation 1 hr 30 min
chilling 12 hours
Ingredients
300 g salted herring fillets
150 g sweet onion or shallots
50 g dried mushrooms
100 g oil or olive oil
1 tbsp mustard
Method
Pour boiling water over the dried mushrooms and set aside for 15–20 minutes, then bring them to a boil together with the water in which they soaked. Cook over low heat for approximately 30 minutes. Cool. Drain in a sieve. Do not discard the mushroom cooking water.
Finely dice the onion. Cut the herring into pieces. Cut the cooked dried mushrooms into very thin strips.
Mix the herring, onion, mushrooms and mustard in a bowl. Season with freshly ground pepper. Add 1–2 tablespoons of the mushroom cooking water. Set aside for approximately half an hour.
Pour the oil over the herring and mix thoroughly. Transfer to jars and refrigerate overnight.