Not long ago, I went next door, to Ireland. The Emerald Isle made a tremendous impression on me. Indeed: it is green, the climate is mild, and the people are genuinely friendly.
I visited two exceptionally interesting places: County Wexford and Dublin. The Irish capital is a must-see if you are travelling to this picturesque country.
Dublin’s greatest attraction is the Guinness Storehouse, a museum devoted to one of the world’s most recognisable beers. This seven-storey brewery presents the fascinating history of an extraordinary porter.
The brewery was founded by none other than Arthur Guinness. The famous Guinness Book of Records took its name from him. Its creation was the work of former managing director Hugh Beaver. He was the father and originator of this unique book.
The Storehouse is located in the central part of the St. James’s Gate brewery. Since 2000, more than 9 million tourists have visited the museum. On the individual floors, we learn about the technology behind brewing Guinness. The first floor presents the history of the facility. Machines and equipment once used to harvest hops and barley are on display. We learn about the ingredients of the famous porter and the brewing process.
One of the more interesting exhibits is the original lease signed by Arthur Guinness in 1759. It was concluded for a period of... 9,000 years. The document is located on the ground floor of the building, beneath a glass floor. On the subsequent floors, we find the barrels in which the beer was stored, as well as models of ships that transported it to nearby England, Europe and North America. A pub occupies the top floor. It offers the best viewpoint over Dublin. Large glass windows reveal a beautiful panorama. Tables arranged along them invite visitors to taste the “black gold” and admire the view of the old city.
Another unusual exhibit is a fish on a bicycle... The installation is mobile and makes a unique impression. It bears the following inscription: “A woman needs a man as a fish needs a bicycle.” Well, humour in a truly old-fashioned style...
Once we have finished sightseeing, we can go down to the ground floor. There is a fairly large souvenir shop there. The selection is enormous. You can buy T-shirts, caps and scarves bearing the brewery brand’s logo. Beer mugs make up the largest selection. Souvenir prices are nevertheless quite high. For example, an original Guinness mug costs €14; T-shirt prices start at €20 or €25. However, you can also find small items such as key rings, bottle openers and sweets. These will surely bring joy too and make interesting souvenirs.
Admission to the museum itself is not cheap either. The cost for an adult is €20, while a student pays €2 less; a family ticket—that is, parents plus two children under 18—costs €46.50. Seniors pay €16. Despite this, the brewery museum is extremely popular. Even on Sunday mornings, there are crowds of visitors.
It is also worth mentioning the beer itself. Guinness is a stout, containing between 2.8 and 7.1% alcohol. It is a top-fermented beer, a type of popular beer on the British Isles known as ale. According to some experts, Guinness derives directly from porter.
Guinness is the most popular beer sold in Ireland. As early as 1833, it was the largest Irish brewery. By the end of the 19th century, it was producing more than a million barrels a year. Today, the brand belongs to the British conglomerate Diageo.
This type of beer is characterised above all by its very dark colour. It is a porter with a distinctive bittersweet taste. Its darker, creamy and dense head also attracts attention. If you have ever bought Guinness in a can or bottle, you surely noticed the small plastic ball inside. It is thanks to this that the head becomes dense when the beer is opened. This effect is achieved with liquid nitrogen, which, together with the beer, passes through a tiny opening into the ball, professionally called a widget. Its movements further froth the beer, while the liquid nitrogen escapes after it is opened. Once the “black gold” has been poured, you can savour its taste and dense head.
As it turns out, porter beers have properties similar to aspirin. They prevent blood clots and, consequently, heart attacks. Moreover, dark beer is less calorific than pale beer. One pint of Guinness contains just 190 kcal. Pale beer contains 252.
A pint, or half a quart, is a measure still used by breweries today. This refers to the imperial pint, equal to 586 ml. To this day, you can buy beer in a one-pint serving, including in Poland.
The characteristic symbol of Guinness is the golden harp. It is also the emblem of Ireland. It is intended to emphasise the Irish origin and character of the beer produced, particularly since Ireland was part of the British Empire when the brand was founded and flourished.
Both Dublin and Ireland are places of certain extremes. One interesting fact is that Dublin has a cemetery where more residents are buried than currently live in the city itself. More than a million Dubliners are buried at Glasnevin Cemetery. The cemetery grew from 9 acres to 120. Today, the capital has just over half a million inhabitants.
The Irish language is not particularly widespread either. Although bilingual signs—in Irish and English—are visible everywhere on the Emerald Isle, only 5% of the population speaks Irish fluently. The second-largest population on the island is Polish, having even overtaken the British demographically. This can be seen on the signs of some local shops.
The Irish dealt with the traces of British domination quite effectively. Until the 1960s, a monument to Admiral Nelson stood in central Dublin. Today, a new symbol of the city can be admired in its place—the Spire of Dublin (The Spire of Dublin). The 120-metre-tall metal monument was erected to mark the new millennium.
I think it is worth visiting the old brewery at St. James’s Gate, experiencing Dublin’s unique atmosphere and the wonderful aroma of excellent beer brewed with passion for more than 250 years.
Finally, I would like to extend my warm thanks to Mr Piotr for showing me this wonderful place and revealing some of its curiosities.
Paweł Skiersinis
The author is a blogger and history enthusiast, particularly passionate about the history of Lower Silesia and Poland. Why Lower Silesia? As he himself says: “Why not? The most fascinating history is the history around us, concerning us and our ancestors.”
And he adds: “I try to present history from a different perspective, in an interesting way—not in the typical textbook style, full of dry dates and facts. My articles concern facts that we will not find in textbooks or well-known publications. The history of Lower Silesia is undoubtedly interesting and fascinating, so it is worth devoting at least a little time to it now and then.”