The Lower Silesia region is well suited to excursions on foot and by motor vehicle. When travelling to places in our region, whether nearer or farther away, we also often use rail connections. However, these connections are increasingly disappearing from train timetables. Today, only important railway lines connecting major industrial and administrative centres are well maintained and offer a good frequency of service.
The situation is worse with less frequently used routes that were once important communication corridors. At the time, their construction was the highest priority. Today, the infrastructure is overgrown with grass and small stations are falling into disrepair.
One such forgotten railway line is line number 283 from Jelenia Góra to Żagań. The history of this railway route is extremely interesting and has its own mysteries.
The route, measuring more than 104 kilometres, is no longer commonly used. Passenger service has been suspended on some sections. The remaining sections carry freight traffic only. Before 1945, this railway line consisted of three sections which, after the end of the war and its takeover by PKP, were merged into one longer route.
Zebrzydowa – Żagań
A single-track section of railway line. It was built in 1902–1905 as a branch of the more important Wrocław – Węgliniec – Berlin line. In addition to the stations at Zebrzydowa and Żagań, eight stations were built along the route: Trzebów, Łozy, Świętoszów, Luboszów, Ławszowa, Przejęsław, Osiecznica Kliczków and Tomisław, as well as two stops: Dobre nad Kwisą and Luboszów.
Today, the line has been closed to passenger traffic. Only freight trains operate on the Zebrzydowa – Osiecznica Kliczków section.
Lwówek Śląski – Zebrzydowa
Like the section described above, this is a non-electrified, single-track line connecting Lwówek Śląski with the Wrocław – Berlin line. It was opened in 1905. The route included the stations Lwówek Śląski, Zebrzydowa Wieś, Nowogrodziec, Gościszów and Niwnice, four stops—Gościszów Dolny, Ołdrzychów (both stops equipped with freight-loading facilities), Radłówka and Rakowice Wielkie—and two sidings: Zebrzydowa Górna and Kolonia Nowogrodziec (later Ołdrzychów – Surmin and Rakowice Żwirownia)1.
Both passenger and freight trains run on this section. The only passenger train is the Jelenia Góra – Lwówek Śląski – Wrocław service.
Bobertalbahn, or the Bóbr Valley Railway
The Bóbr Valley Railway, that is, section no. 283 from Lwówek Śląski to Jelenia Góra, is the most beautifully situated railway line in Poland. I think that anyone who has travelled through the Bóbr Valley at least once will confirm this. The history of this railway route is exceptionally interesting.
The railway line was built as a consequence of the construction of a dam on the Bóbr, and thus a flood-control reservoir and hydroelectric power plant in Pilchowice. At the end of the 19th century, the Karkonosze Mountains were hit by a catastrophic flood. Sudden rainfall from 28 to 31 July 1897 caused the Bóbr to overflow. Material losses were estimated in millions of marks. The government in Berlin decided to build a reservoir whose dimensions rivalled those of the Titanic.
Both engineering projects were completed in 1912, except that the Pilchowice Dam survived more than one disaster, while the Titanic sank. Its construction cost 8,000,000 marks2. By comparison, the reinforced-concrete Centennial Hall cost only 2,000,000. The dam was opened with great ceremony. Emperor Wilhelm II himself attended the opening ceremony.
In connection with the construction of the artificial lake, it was decided to build a railway line to facilitate the transport of construction materials—above all, materials from nearby quarries. After construction was completed, the railway route was to continue serving transport needs. Among other things, Wałbrzych coal was transported along this line.
Bobertalbahn was built between 1904 and 1909 as the last railway line in the Sudetes. It was an exceptionally difficult undertaking because of the challenging hilly terrain. For this reason, it was built in stages.
The first section, from Jelenia Góra to Siędlęcin, extended to Pilchowice, was opened in 1906. A steel railway bridge measuring 135 metres in length was built over Lake Pilchowickie on this part of the route. Suspended 38 metres above the water, it is the highest bridge in Poland.
The Pilchowice – Wleń section took the longest to build. It was not opened until 1909 because three tunnels had to be excavated along the line: a 187-metre tunnel beneath Mount Czyżyk, one beneath Mount Dwory (154 metres), and the longest, beneath the castle hill, measuring 320 metres. The engineers also designed a steel bridge over the Bóbr River and a 50-metre stone viaduct over the road leading to Jelenia Góra.
The Pilchowice Zapora stop was located on a high, forest-covered escarpment. At this point, the line runs along the northern shore of the lake. A paved path leads from the small station to the dam. Beneath the station is a specially constructed, 400-metre reinforced-concrete ledge.
The Wleń – Lwówek Śląski section was completed in 1909. The stations at Marczów and Dębowy Gaj were located along this line. Both have since been downgraded to stops. The station building at Dębowy Gaj burned down in the 1960s. A wooden shelter was erected in its place.
During the interwar period, there was considerable traffic on the Bóbr Valley line, mainly tourist traffic. More than 20,000 tickets were sold annually at the Marczów and Pilchowice Zapora stations, and as many as 70,000 at Wleń station. Today, such figures may not seem remarkable. Bolesławiec station serves 1,000,000–2,000,000 passengers annually, although 1,800,000 passengers passed through Jelenia Góra railway station in 1899–1900.
On 8 May 1945, German troops blew up the tunnel entrances on the Bóbr Valley line and the bridge abutment over Lake Pilchowickie. After the war, the damage was quickly repaired, and trains returned to the route in 1946.
It is interesting to note that as many as eight pairs of trains ran in 1939. In 1948, there were four pairs: two services between Jelenia Góra and Świeradów-Zdrój and two pairs on the Jelenia Góra – Zielona Góra route.
In 1953, there were eight trains, including two to Poznań via Zielona Góra. The farthest a train from Jelenia Góra travelled, via Wleń, Lwówek Śląski and then Zielona Góra, was Szczecin.
Today, that is history. Long-distance connections were discontinued at the beginning of the 1990s. Currently, a modern Koleje Dolnośląskie railcar operates on the Jelenia Góra – Lwówek – Wrocław route.
New timetable
For some time now, the subject of closing the Bóbr Valley line to passenger traffic has resurfaced. This is connected with the new train timetable, which will take effect in December. It would be a shame for such a beautifully situated railway line to pass entirely into history. There is, however, hope. According to information obtained from the Marketing and Promotion Department of Koleje Dolnośląskie, which writes:
In the new timetable, we plan for the “Bóbr Valley” train—Wrocław – Legnica – Bolesławiec – Zebrzydowa – Lwówek Śląski – Jelenia Góra—to run on Sundays and Fridays, and additionally for the Jelenia Góra – Lwówek Śląski service to run on Saturdays, Sundays and holidays. We will provide information about the details of the offer.
it can be concluded that it may nevertheless be possible to save the line and preserve its tourist value.
Railway disasters
The Bóbr Valley is not only beautiful scenery. The railway—both on this line and on the present no. 283 line from Jelenia Góra to Żagań—has experienced several disasters. We often think that tragic accidents happen somewhere far away from us. This time, however, we can see that our own area has also suffered painfully.
One of the lesser-known accidents that occurred was in the 1970s, a head-on collision between two freight trains hauled by steam locomotives. The incident took place at approximately 2:00–3:00 a.m. The intoxicated dispatcher at Nowogrodziec sent a train towards Lwówek Śląski onto the railway line, forgetting that a similar train was approaching from the opposite direction towards Zebrzydowa. The trains collided between Nowogrodziec and Niwnice. The steam locomotives were completely destroyed in the accident, and the drivers died. Information about this disaster comes from a railway enthusiast. There are no detailed press reports.
Another accident involving two trains on the Jelenia Góra – Żagań route took place on 3 August 1977 before Wleń station. Here is an account by one of the local residents:
I do not remember the date (perhaps it was the year of the 1977 flood?) when an accident occurred in the tunnel before Wleń station. Because the telephone line had been damaged, trains operated under a special order—by sight and at reduced speed. Under these conditions, the trains collided head-on in the tunnel near the southern portal, where the track curves and visibility is limited. Since the trains were travelling slowly, there were probably no serious consequences. I do not remember whether the trains derailed; our father told us about the accident when he returned from a business trip.
Twenty people were injured in the train collision.
One of the most tragic railway disasters occurred at Dębowy Gaj. On 20 March 1984, approximately 200–300 metres beyond a railway crossing, 4 kilometres from Marczów. An evening train returning from Lwówek Śląski to Jelenia Góra met with an accident as a result of a steam locomotive boiler explosion. Fragments of the locomotive were scattered within a radius of 80 metres.
The senior driver, aged 37, died at the scene, while his younger colleague, aged 26, was thrown onto the roof of the first carriage. He died three hours later after being taken to the hospital in Lwówek. The train manager was also injured. Despite her head injuries, however, she walked to Marczów station to report the tragedy, as the telephone connection had been severed by the explosion.
What caused the tragedy? Certainly, the explosion of the boiler in a Ty2 locomotive. The locomotive was of German manufacture, produced at the beginning of the 1940s. Following an investigation, PKP authorities established that the tender had not been filled with water at Lwówek Śląski station. However, I know the account of someone who claims that the tender had been filled, citing as proof the fact that the train manager was accidentally splashed with water while the locomotive was shunting. What is the truth? We are unlikely ever to know today. It is possible that the drivers’ deaths may have helped conceal the causes of the disaster. Accident investigation reports probably exist, but it is difficult to confirm or deny how thoroughly the appointed commission investigated the matter. Nevertheless, this tragedy, like the others, has become a permanent part of the history of both the area and the Bóbr Valley Railway.
The last recorded accident on this railway line was the derailment, in 2008 near Marczów, of a tanker carrying ammonia water.
Paweł Skiersinis
The author is a blogger and a history enthusiast, particularly interested in the history of Lower Silesia and Poland. Why Lower Silesia? As he puts it: “Why not? The most interesting history is the history around us, concerning ourselves and our ancestors.”
He adds: “I try to present history from a different perspective, in an interesting way, not in the typical textbook style, full of dry dates and facts. My articles concern facts that we will not find in textbooks and well-known publications. The history of Lower Silesia is undoubtedly interesting and fascinating, so it is worth devoting at least a brief moment to it from time to time.”
1 See www.jelenia.rail.pl
2 Pilchowice Dam – As Big as the Titanic – #4 elomaps TV; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RQIpobNKzKM